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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.